Psyched and Devasated

The team made it to the Shire this weekend after snow put the trip to the gneiss on hold for another day. We woke up in the boot of the car, with ice on the inside of the window but the sun rising over the eastern moors. The sky was perfect blue and we knew it would be a special day for friction. Bullies and flapjack later we were on our way up the hill to the Slipstones, a series of micro edges of perfect grit. Lovely, fine grained, high friction stuff. mmmmm. We warmed up on seven V0 to V1s. We were psyched! We moved on tot he main edge where we climbed a variation to a V1 at about V3. The guide said V4 but I don't think so. I had a bit of a captain about on it but all it took was a move of the hand on the starting hold and it felt easy. We had goes on Sulky Little Boys V7 and Supple Wall V5 but all failed. Pete nearly had Supple Wall though. We moved on and did a nice V4 in a corridor. A cool move from an undercut and sidepull. I had been doing it static but the time I sent the problem was a scrappy affair. Psyched though. We then tried Steptoe V3 and got completely owned! Nearly even got owned by Tiptoe V1. It was quickly turning into farce and the inevitable chat of "lets go to Brimham" was busted out. I reluctantly agreed, having never had a good day at this chossy paradise. I do really like it and the boulders in the Pommel area are amazing. We packed up and travelled over. I have failed on the Pommel V4 (bottom photo) on every visit. I was starting to feel a bit nervous as we approached. Last time I was there, I couldn't even grab the top! What a captain! This time, however, I used different beta and quite quickly got involved. I just couldn't pull over the top. Seven times I took the top boss but every time I peeled off. So frustrating. The YorkshireGrit videos have different beta for the top but I found it a testpeice. Looks like I'm going to have to go back. Oh well. We went straight to Heart Shaped Slab Arete 6c+. This testpeice nealy went for both Pete and Rosco but both got owned by the top rockover. Sacking it off we had team sends on Murky Rib 6a+ (top photo) and then tried a 6c sit start on the cubic block. I captained, Pete struggled but rosco got it second go. Send of the day at the end of the day. 

A great day out, even if I didn't get the Pommel. I was psyched to be pathing the first moves by the end but devastated that I just couldn't finish it. Brimham owned my tips.... I hope they are better for Monday when I do battle with Fight Club!

The day Pete sent the Trossachs

Well, after two weeks of cake eating and arm bending today was never going to be my day. I did, however, make it to Ratho for the first time this week to check it out. Very nice. Lots of bouldering to go at and a campus board. They have got rid of the barrel wall though which seems a shame. Lets hope they change the problems frequently. Although the Blue Oyster banter was noticeable by its absence, I think I will be happy to train there in the years to come. The hour to an hour and a half drive from work to the centre has made training tiresome for the last six months since I moved to Stirling. Ratho is an easy twenty five minutes away from work. The move will be god for me although I will miss the chat. Hopefully, I will get the four training days a week I need to move through my plateau. The once or twice a week I managed all summer/autumn has simply maintained my captain status, no better, no worse. 

And so it was, I went to the Trossachs with Pete and Jonny. I climbed lots of thing I have climbed before (including HB 6b+) which was fun but hardly inspiring. What was inspiring though was seeing Pete climb the triptych of Jawa 6c, Tourist Trap 6c+ and Fight Club 6c+ with no bother. It was a mark of ten months of four times a week training. Pete, I know you are reading! I am relieved in a way that you didn't get that RSPB job. Commuting is a test-piece and I would be gutted if you had to give up a couple of training days for it. You would just keep on the same grade like I have done and stop improving the way you have been. 

Anyway... I'm already starting to send at Ratho. I am going tomorrow. Jeeka and I will be moving in the next couple of weeks so life will soon be very different but I will have up to two hours of my day back again which can be spent training. Two hours wasted in the car every day just so I can drive my desk!! Its gutting but it will be over soon. 

Devastated....

that Hebson hasn't put the Annot footage on YouPorn yet...

French Fancies

It's difficult to know where to start with a blog entry about such an eventful trip. It would be pretty boring to bust out a full length blow by blow account of each day, so I'm not going to do that. Instead, I will record the main events. Firstly, respect must go out to Andrew "stealth trainer" Hebson for taking the title of Rock Star for the week. I had expected Pete to burn Andy off. Pete has really embraced the smack beta and is so much stronger than this time last year. However, Andrew "outdoor beta" Hebson just rocked up and climbed over 50 problems in the four sending days, an impressive return. Well done big man!!! 

Next up must be a word about the venue itself. The boulders are sat on a hillside, high above the village in a fantastic mixed oak forest. Autumn was in full flow and the forest floor was strewn with leaf litter. Although the bouldering is not as extensive as Font, there is plenty to go at during short trips like this. The best thing about it is the quietness. The campsite was sparsely populated and we were climbing by ourselves all the time. It made for really relaxing sessions. Font is more hectic. In Annot you can really sit and breathe. Shame it only lasted a week. 

Next up, I suppose, was my "seminal moment" which unfortunately took place not on a 7a but on a 6c or, at a push a 6c+. Regardless of the grade I was psyched to climb Psycho Addict, an Annot classic. I also climbed another few problems that had me psyched. At Place de Carduer, I climbed a nice B7 (Andy gave it 6c - could be V5 or just hard V4 - its difficult to know) and flashed the B7 slab at Place Vondome (6b at most). the problem was fantastic, not my usual style but sent in quick time. Apart from these two, I climbed a lot of B5 and B6, some of which were fantastic.. 

What would this blog entry be without mention of Vladimir the drunken Slovak. When the rain came we broke into the Grimpers caravan to borrow his tarp. We slung the tarp over out campfire area and cooked some sausages. We had limited psyche at this point but the success of the tarp and the dinner, coupled with a few beers and the promise of a better forecast for the next had lifted spirits. We were warm, dry, fed and watered. Feeling lucky, we shouted on the new comers to join us. Expecting to interpret some french we were hit with a volley of Slovak. Slightly taken aback, we welcomed the four guys to our fire and tried to get the chat on. I quickly realised that these guys were not up for a relaxing chat by the fire but a full on wine drinking session. One by one people left the fire side, Vladimir still talking. Pete was taking the full brunt of his drunken chat and we eventually had all left the two of them to it. I was quite drunk myself by this point and was happily tucked into my sleeping bag. Inevitably, I awoke desperate for a drink of water, I looked around the tent for the bottle I had filled from the waster block before bed and noticed a bright light from outside. I opened the tent doors to look out expecting to see Vlad staring into the fire but I had to move my head quickly to avoid the burning ash fling past my tent. the flames were huge! I shouted for Pete and went to see what was happening. My bouldering mat was on fire. Only a fingernail moon shape of it was left. the rest was gone. I ran back to the tent to find water to douse the flames but it was too late, the mat was gone. Gutted. Pete and Andy arrived at the scene and as the headtorches moved around, we glimpsed the full extent of the damage. The grimpers tarp was ruined. The flames had got so big that they had burned a two foot hole in the tarp. We were gutted. We had borrowed his gear without asking and bulled it. 

The next morning the rain had turned to ice on the tents. the sun was shining and it was another great sending day. By 4pm, the snow started and we left for Nice. The sending was over for the trip. We got 4 good sending days in which is pretty good for a winter trip. I sent some great problems and felt I climbed at my limit, Pete climbed well but not as well as he can, Rosco failed to deploy his immense strength, Karen climbed really well and sent some good problems but Andy burned us all. 

The Balancing Act

Well, well, where to start? My climbing life dipped to an all time low over the last few weeks with poor days out at Brimham, Burberage and St Bees. These three venues shut me down lie never before and I left each without a single problem above the reporting threshold and as such, I am not going to report my efforts. Suffice to say that the day out to St Bees, where I was unable to get involved with the activities of the boys left me feeling pretty down. The whole point of bouldering is for everyone to work the same problems, testing themselves against the rock, being spurred on by your friends. When I had to go off by myself to find something easy and leave them to it, I felt fairly pathetic. This seems crazy compared to the trip to Portlethen where the Prow was sent second go (second session). The root cause was obvious. A lack of training over the last couple of months due to a general fatigue resulting from work, commuting, selling flats and maintaining relationships. Climbing slips away as, unfortunately, the lowest priority. Sat in the bath after that day at St Bees, I was ready just to pack it in, but on waking the next morning I felt filled with a new determination to try again and make a go of it. Climbing has been the most positive thing in my life for nearly seven years now. The personal challenges, the places and adventures but more importantly, the lasting and enriching friendships have been a source of great inspiration for me. I could never give that up. I may not ever be Sharma but I am climbing and climbing is me. 

This sense of determination paid off with a weeks solid training, marked strength gains and a quick ascent of Cave LH 6b at Bowden Doors on Sunday. This problem has been denied to me on my two previous visits. It felt fairly easy this time. In addtion, I flashed Manta RH (6b in the book but really 6a) and Y-Front 6a+. Y-Front is a problem I have made half hearted attempts at over a few years. It was nice to finally tick it and move on. Also, I was pretty psyched to climb Three Pockets 6a as a static mantle. I can still climb after all. It is clear what I need to do. I do not have natural reserves of strength, I need to train hard and consistently. Motivation is the the key for me. Getting on the board for even half an hour at home when I can't get to the wall will make a huge difference. I just have to remind myself how much I want it.

Sully's Big Room

Headed north east today to avoid the Environment Agency's flood warnings. It seems we never know where we are going until Friday night. There are four directions and wherever the sun shines we go.  The only problem I suppose is that the venues in each of those directions are roughly 2 hours drive away. I have a new sending wagon on the horizon so I hope these drives are better in the future. Today we went to check out Glen Clova, near Forfar. The rock is ryolyte but there seems to be only a few large boulders. We started on the John Peel boulder with Peel Sessions, a classic V4 6b (centre picture). Pete and Jonny flashed it and I got it second go. Next up was the sit down start, V5 on the internet guide and 6c+ in the new guidebook. Pete climbed it first go, Jonny second or third. I was there as the captain of team weak and kept falling off. The boys indulged me and let me keep trying and after getting over a harsh flash pump in my left arm, I sent it after dozen or so attempts. there was lots of chat about the grade and although I agree it is overgraded, I think Pete and Jonny, who have both smashed through their plateaus recently, just don't know their own strength. I think V4/6b+ would probably be fair. I don't really know why I made such hard work of it. 

Next up was Rudolf 6c. Pete and Jonny both flashed this one. It again took me at least a dozen goes. I think (for me) it was harder than Peel Sessions, involving as it does, more open reach than I can generally muster. 

Moving on again, we went to check out the Hole of Weems 7a. I decided to give it a rest after having to work so hard for the other two problems. The other boys struggled for over half an hour but on their "last attempts" both miraculously held on through shit slopers to send it in consecutive goes. Team psyche. That seemed to be the best of the circuit in the new guidebook. We didn't have the online guide with us so we packed and drove further north to Portethen. It was my suggestion, made becuase I really wanted to get back on the two problems I tried there last week, The Pit and The Prow. 

The wind was up and the North-East coast of Scotland which I call home gave a good show if its harsh beauty. The waves were crashing and its looked like we didn't have long before the tide swallowed the clean rock of the Sea Pig Boulder. We started on The Prow V5/6c, Pete giving confident flash banter. He got sorted, pulled on an missed the pinch.. Harsh! The pinch is the best thing about the problem. The other week when I was there, I was disheartened when I first touched it. But once you are underneath it becomes amazing, perfectly hand sized. Its a short problem and once you have latched the pinch, you don't let go until you are topping out (see left photo). I spent about an hour and half on it last time, never managing to quite latch the right side pull from the heel hook. Pete missed the pinch again. I got on and, like last week, missed the sidepull. Pete again, latching the pinch but now struggling with the heel hook. My turn, I entered the Big Room and cruised it. It felt easy! I was psyched. I felt my ebbing climbing mojo resurge like the North Sea tide around my feet. Pete got it a few goes later and Jonny too, high fives all round. 

The Pit V6/7a (right hand photo) is another Porty classic. I had sussed the beta a few weeks ago but couldn't do the final move. I showed the boys ow to do it and moved through the lower moves easily every time. Pete was sugar spazzing by now and struggling with the powerful undercuts. Jonny was having a harsh time, losing skin but after half a dozen top efforts, he latched the top and dispatched the problem. We gave some skin to The Pain and The Pendulum but called it a day for Fish and Chips. 

It was a profitable day out for all, three problems at 6c for me and Pete, four for Jonny, one 7a for Pete and two for Jonny. Not bad really. It was frustrating to watch these guys piss up problems I found hard but it meant I was forced to dig deep and man up. Its sometimes more satisfying that way. Oh yeah, and Pete got the send of the day, an onsight ascent of The Peadie Prow 5b, possible my facvourite 5b problem in Scotland - even better than Friars Mantle!

Portlethen

Was in Aberdeen this weekend for my brother's stag do. Managed to get out to Porty for a good three hour session. I had gone with the aim of climbing The Prow 6c, a classic of the area on probably the best rock Portlethen has to offer. Sadly, I failed on the last move a couple of times and by the time I had worked out some decent foot beta, I was struggling to latch the left pinch. I met a couple of cool guys and we got stuck into The Pit 7a. Stuart had been trying for a few weeks and could do the top move but wasn't able to link the bottom section. I worked out some better beta and he did it next go! Gutted. I was able to link from the bottom to the lat move (about 6b+ in itself) but couldn't power up the last one. I got to this point three times. To be fair I couldn't do the move from standing so I'll have to come back to them. I'll call it a blessing in disguise as I'm up again next weekend fro the actual wedding so I can try again!

All at Sea with Bobby Shaftoe

Well, today was my birthday. Pete and I travelled to 'the county' last night and camped out in the woods. We found a fantastic spot with a soft bedding to sleep on and after a knock out doob we were fast asleep. Woke up at 6am to rain on my face. I crawled under the waterproof tent outer and went back to sleep until 8am. After coffee and a cable I was psyched to see what Rothey had to offer. We are not used to finding grit on county missions so this was a bit of a treat. The ferns were high and the ground was boggy but we made it to the best looking area - the arete area. Unfortunately, I decided to warm up on Hanging Arete 6a/V3. Pete climbed it very quickly but I fucked around on it for ages. I was getting completely owned. Must have taken a dozen goes before I climbed it. I was furious and as always it felt ok when it went. It is probably the best line at the crag using odd holds and powerful moves - not my thing but hey... Also climbed The Rounded Arete 6a and Pockets Wall 6a. Things hadn't started well and I was having having a shocker. Pete spent some time trying the sit start to Hanging Arete at 6c+ with good efforts but no joy. We moved over to the crag area to try some of the 6bs but a lot of the problems were wet or, in the case of Gloom, absolutely shit. Pete liked the look of The Long Reach 6c+. I had a few goes as well but found it hard and grim on the skin. Pete on the other hand manned through it in half a dozen goes. Definitely the send of the day. 

We left just as John "earl of northumberland" Earl turned up with his crew. We had seen as much of Rothley as we wanted and were slightly disappointed. We gambled with the weather and the petrol light and went to Bobby Shaftoe. Another county gritstone effort. this crag is much better. We should have gone there first thing. We went straight to Arete land and we both had a proper struggle with Classic Arete 6a. Thankfully I climbed it on the same go ad Pete so I wasn't too angry this time. I climbed a problem called The Long Reach 6a. Pete couldn't do it after two goes so gave up. It goes from an undercut up to a crimp and top (photo - check out my neck gun). I was a bit more psyched for it so gave it a couple more goes. 

Moving on to explore more of the crags. The place just got better and better. I completely failed on two 6bs but got one, Classic Arete Sit Start 6b. It was easy though, especially compared to some of the other problems around. Pete made a good but forceful ascent of Crease Classic 6b. A really nice problem which  I really want to go back and try. We were more or less spent but went the cob area and failed miserably on some further problems. 

All in all, it was a great day out in the county and the rain never came. We climbed for nearly 8 hours and were completely owned by the end. Shame its not as good as St Bees!

Fontainebleau

Jeeka was kind enough to let us stop in Font on the 'way home'. I lost my psyche for it when I saw the weather forecast in Geneva. Thunderstorms in Paris. Seems the closer I get to home the worse the weather gets! We parked at Apremont. I wanted to try Hyperplomb and Medalle au Chocolat, both 7a. the heavens opened s soon as I put my mat down. Rather than wait it out and get soaked we went back to the car and drove to Bas Cuvier. It dried out here after an hour but it then became very hot and humid. I met a 7b sender from Wales who couldn't do La Marie Rose due to the weather. I just got stuck into the red circuit. Its great! Wall and aretes, crimps and slopers. Pure Font. 

In the evening we went to Roche Aux Sabot, probably my favorite Font venue. Full of Pizza from the amazing shop next to the station, I was psyched to get on a nemesis, Le Angle Jean-Luc 6c. I failed again but came much closer than least year. The heat rendered the left sloper fairly useless but its hardly an excuse. I would love someone to come and show me the beta. Some cool Swedish guys gave me some psyche and when their strongman couldn't get to my high point (poor footwork) I didn't feel to bad. 

It was dark before I gave up on the red circuit. Jeeka had found a boulder with a flat sand top which we were going to sleep on. The rain started slightly so we found a roof instead. When the rain got heavier it drained off the boulder, under the roof and straight onto us. Springing to action, I jumped out of my bag, and pitched the tent, the lightning throwing the silhouette of my naked body onto the canvas as I struggled with no torch to erect the damn thing.....

A great end to a fantastic holiday. Jeeks indulged me no end but I did manage to cook Thai curry and get champagne for our 3rd anniversary. From a bouldering point of view I only climbed two 6b+, three 6b, and lots of 6a/+. Not amazing but the three venues were superb and worth it just to be there... 

Other Random Holiday Snaps

Sustenpass

On the way back from Italy we stopped at the Sustenpass for a few hours to break the journey and check out the bouldering. I had hoped to get here for evening sessions from Interlaken but the drive was not the 40 minutes promised on UKClimbing but about 90 minutes over a harsh alpine pass. Coupled with the 4pm thunderstorm, no evening sends would be possible and this would be my only chance to get stuck in. I thought it would be a quiet venue but there were another five teams out. I later found out that Dave Graham has an 8b here so I suppose it must be popular. It was a hot sunny day but the boulders are at 2000m so the air is nicely cool. The rock is a granitic gneiss and is very rough. Crimps, edges and slopers. I climbed for over 3 hours but only climbed 4 'proper' problems. I warmed up on a few slabs and traverses and started on a 6a sitter. I expected to flash it but was spat off harshly. Took a few goes before I sorted the sneaky beta for the send. Next up was a cool 6b+ sit start (pictured). It is in the guide as a "6" whatever that means. I assume it is a misprint and so I gave it what I feel it is. It took some doing, maybe 15 goes. I was getting pretty pissed off with it Next up was a 6b. the first two moves of this were the crux but it went in 5 goes. The following youtube link shows the two problems. Its the last two problems - the ones the guys struggle on! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHHy6GONQq4&feature=related) Lastly we moved boulder and I climbed a nice 6a+ arete and tried a 6c before packing up for a coke and a smile. An amazing venue which I hope the photos give testament to. 

Road Trip - Val Di Mello

Well, back in the UK and surprise, surprise it's pissing it down. Must say that I'm less than psyched about the prospect of going back to work. I have an interview on Thursday for a job I'm not sure I want and loads to do on top. I've been thinking of a career change recently. I've done 5 years at SEPA now and maybe it's time to move on to something new... 

Anyway, on to the sending... I got in 3 1/2 sessions during the holiday. Not bad considering it was a slice land trip.. Each session was at a different venue, Val Di Mello, Sustenpass and Fontainebleau. Before the bouldering started we spent some time traveling over stopping in London and Bern on our way to Interlaken in Switzerland. Here, we camped under the Jungfrau range and got stuck into some other the cool sports they have on offer there. White Water Rafting was brilliant but canyoning was amazing!

The first climbing happened in Italy. The Val Di Mello is probably the prettiest venue I have ever climbed in. 

The only problem is that it was hot! Even at 1500m it was pushing 30 degrees. I was psyched though. No big numbers unfortunately. One 6a, two 6a+, one 6b. All fantastic problems. I then spent some time trying a highball 6b+ which without someone to move the mat along, I gave up on quickly. Moving on I found I nice 6c arete. I spent about an hour and a half on it but the top slopers were minging. By this time the daily 5pm thunderstorm was coming so we packed up and retreated back for dinner. These thunderstorms meant that evening sends were not really a possibility so I had to be out in the heat of the day. Check out the photos... Amazing...

The following day was the hottest day of the trip so far. Added to this was the fact that I was very low on skin. The rock is extremely rough and, similar to gritstone, it is only possible to have one hard day before skin is thin. I tried to climb but the heat was too much and after climbing another classic 6a+ I gave up and sat under a tree to read my book. I thought that would e it for sending in Italy. However, today was to be different. There was no thunderstorm so in the evening I went to a boulder near the campsite and climbed a 6a+, 6b, 6b+. A nice evening in the end. We left the next morning. 

Coffee Break

Having a sly blog at work today during my 10am coffee. Just want to give a big shout out to PeterP and his guns of steel for sending 3 7as in Annott. Devestating to go from buzzing your tits off in the mountains to work on a Wednesday morning in the rain! Nice one Pete!

I'm off to the continent myself on Friday. In climbing terms I'm getting three days in Val Di Mello and one in Font. We are camping more or less under the Eiger so there must be stones to play on around Interlaken so maybe will get stuck into some more if Im lucky.

Anyway, gutted for you being back Pete, psyched for you being away Andy. I'll be devestated if you don;t blog your Wales trip baw jaws. Do it from the internet cafe in Llanbaris when it pisses down!!

Well anyway, I'm super psyched for everyones summer trips. October will be here in no time. Flights to Paris are £120 and camping in the woods is free. Get psyched and get on board.

The Whangie

Went for a short wander up The Whangie with Jeeks today. Took the mat and my boots but forgot John Watson's topo. Had a bit of a play around and although there are few strong lines the bouldering is in fact reasonable and the view is worth it by itself. Climbed Rune Wall 6a+ and something which I don't think is recorded. It may have been Fingerripper but I am not sure. It went from sitting at about 6b. A nice evening and I think I will go back with the topo next time I need to blow the cobwebs away. 

Loch Katrine Boulders

Went to the Loch Katrine Boulders after work today. It was windy out so I thought it would be worth risking the midges. I have had my eye on Fight Club 6c+ and hoped it might let me in. The bracken was really high and I warmed up on the usual. Climbed the classic beta intensive Mind Trick 6a first go today which was a new experience. Topping out on that problem was wonderful today. The bracken closes in on you and when you pop up and stand on the boulder, the hills and the loch come into view. Not a soul to be seen. Scottish bouldering at its finest. I moved on the next boulder and set up under HB 6b+ (photo). I'd never done this problem. Pete and I spent time on it years ago (we couldn't climb Mind Trick either) but had no joy. It starts crouched from a letter box and moves leftwards up the s-shaped arete on slopey lay-aways and pinches. I sussed some good dark arts beta and sent it in six goes. I moved on to the main event, fight club. Although I could pull on and take the first hold, I couldn't get my heel into the starting hold. I gave it a bit of skin but it was not going to let me in today! At this point the rain came so I ran under the cover of trees and tried Water Colour Challenge 6a+. I worked out a nice sequence on crimps but a hold snapped halfway up and I quickly lost my psyche for it. On the same boulder is Art School 6b. This is blunt arete, climbed on slopers with a committing move to the final hold. It took a couple of goes to work out the right sequence but when I did I made it through the crux and only slipped off the last hold because it has got mossy and wet. The boulder is obviously neglected and needs a brush on a stick to sort it out. I decided to have a quality rest before trying again. The rain stopped and the wind with it. Before I knew it my legs and arms were covered in midges. I packed and ran. No problem is worth that, especially not a mossy one. All in all a good evening, climbing a long time project and at least touching Fight Club. 

Summer at St Bees

Matt was the consoler of the lonely today, accompanying me to St Bees Head in Cumbria. I got him psyched by the fact that the RSPB own the cliffs. The forecast was positive and so it proved. By the time we had arrived at the lighthouse, the sun was beating down. I got warmed up on some nice V1s and a V2 6a, then moved round for an on-sight attempt of the classic Apairy Arete V1 5c. I started with my hands round the wrong way and blew it. I sent it next go. I then moved round to try a V4 I saw on the UKClimbing photo page. I must admit that I failed pretty miserably on this. It took a while to work out the beta to the second hold but then couldn't power to the top. Powering from right arm crimps and heal hooks is not my strong point. I moved round and climbed another couple of V2s (flashed) before settling on a another problem I saw on the web. Its the short arete in the background of the photo. It goes at V5 from sitting. I nearly flashed it and I think I only fell off out of shock! After that I struggled with the first move but it went in the end.

We picked up our stuff and moved south the Fishermans Steps area. I climbed the classic Fisherman's Dyno V2 6a. An amazing problem and nearly the problem of the day. I tried the V6 arete and was baffled by the baffling start. This area is not as good as the Apairy Wall area so we moved back again. The locals showed me Headbanger. It is a problem Pete and I checked out on that rainy day years ago. It is V8 from sitting, V3 from standing but the locals say it is V5 from crouched. I found it pretty desperate. The burlesque slap with the right hand wasn't sticking. I was psyched though. This was my sharma moment. I gave a power scream and caught the slap, adjusted, made the next two slaps and promptly fell off the rock over top out. I gave it some quality rest manned it up in front of Matt and Team Local (who were also psyched after climbing screaming yellow desert at V8+) . Two V5 ticks. I was pretty sunburnt by now but was psyched for one last problem. got involved with Team Local to try a classic called Undercooke V5/6. What an amazing problem. I slipped off the crux pinch twice but I am so psyched to go back soon to work it fresh.

An amazing day! It takes only minutes longer than a trip to the county and the problems, although fewer, are much better. I can't wait to get back!!

On a separate note, Pete climbed Gorilla V5/6c today. I think I might try and give a bash this week.

The Last Wee While

I’ve not blogged for a while as there hasn’t been much to report. Team Strong + 1 made a trip to Kyloe in the woods where I completely failed to climb Jocks and Geordies 6c/V5. Everyone else got it and I was pretty gutted. Pete has burst through his plateau by virtue of a combination of crash dieting (he looks like a smack head) and lots of training. He is very close to completing Mestizio Traverse 7b/V8 at Dumbarton. Last night, Chris cruised it and fell off the last move of the Mugsy Traverse. I’ve not climbed anything good and new for a while. Work has been getting me down a bit but that shouldn’t be an excuse. Heading out this weekend to somewhere new and I’m getting three days at Val de Mello and one in Font for my summer holiday with Jeeka. What a top slice! Hoping for a trip to Font in October, with or without the Hebsonic Boom. Still not tied a rope on yet this summer and to be fair, I’m pretty devastated about it. Would be psyched to get some HVS/E1 multipitch under my belt this year. Anyway, here are a couple of recent pictures and I’ll hopefully have more to report after this weekend!

Mixed Fortunes

Gambled with the weather forecast and went to Bowden last night. I settled down at the sheep pen boulder, sipped a beer and watched a film on my ipod. So far so good. Woke up at 5ish to the sound of light rain on my sleeping bag. When swearing didn't make it stop, I packed up and moved along the crag to the cave. I tried to get back to sleep but failed; so at 6am I was warming up on some easy problems I'd overlooked in the past. The rain had stopped and it hadn't been heavy enough to affect the rock. These were nice problems, the pick being The Crescent Flake 6a. I moved on and climbed some old favorites including Scoop Wall 6b and Lightbulb 6a. I had my eye on a slab problem called Parisenne Walkways 6c but it obviously doesn't see much traffic sitting, as it does, next to Childs Play. It was a bit dirty and the sandy nature of the rock didn't inspire the highball head required. I moved on to the more solid rock of the main crag. Stopping at His Eminence 6b, I sent this problem third go. I was pretty pleased as I failed on this last year. I went to try Cave Left Hand 6b but decided to crawl back inside my sleeping bag for a wee bit, falling asleep quickly and waking at 10ish. Once awake, I needed to warm up again so I walked to the chuffing end and climbed Guards Exit Direct 6a and Eliminate 1 6a. I tried and failed at Y-Fronts and went find a project. I settled for Captain Haddock 7a+. It was desperate but I spent a bit of time on it all the same. By this time the sky had bruised and rain was coming. I was broken but more from lack of sleep than anything else. I was back at the car for 1230. Weird to feel so broken so early! A bit devastated to only walk away with three new 6as and one new 6b. I really thought I would have a good go on the 6c slab. 

Looks like rain for the weekend so the Hells Lum chuffing mission may be cancelled. I wonder where I'll go instead!

A Seminal Moment

After a night on the beers, today was never likely to go down too well. Picked up Peter and headed to Craigmore. The midges were harsh and the bumblies were rife. Struggling with both, we sacked it off after Hebson climbed Wide Eyed (V4). 

Dumby again. After climbing the Sea Boulder circuit we tried 2HB (V3) . It's highball and none of us had our hearts in it. Hebson declared it game over so we went to Toto to try the sit start again. Peter had looked strong on this the day before and after a couple of goes today, was stood up in the crack. He fell off as soon as it became unstable. 

I had to step in with some harsh chat about crimpchimp. As harsh as it was it got him pretty riled. He soon showed us his new philosophy of trying hard and sent it the very next go, fighting when it got hard and manning up through the stand up. He was psyched. We were all psyched. There were high fives all round and a grin like I've never seen. 

So Peter has won the race to 7a. There was never really any doubt. I can't say I'm not gutted for myself but I'm so pleased for Pete. He has worked hard for this form and he deserves to go on from here and take Totality. I'm inspired to train for the same and I was pleased to make good progress on Toto Sit Start today. There has been a lot of harsh chat recently and I only take it heart because it's devestating to follow my two best friends round the country's crags two grades behind. However, they inspire me to better things and surely thats what mates are all about. 

Steve McClure, on the other hand, inspired only head shaking from the assebled locals after whipping us up into a frenzy by feigning a lead of Rhapsody and then escaping off left. We thought we were going to see something special but Steve just turned around and spunked in our faces. We left feeling dirty and used. 

Andy's Arrival

The long awaited arrival in Scotland of Bouldering Hebson was greeted without the media frenzy of Sonnie Trotter's recent visit; Hebson preferring to make his impact quietly, letting the rest of the community discover his achievements through word of mouth or the elusive V7 blog. The Hebsonic Boom had travelled up to test himself against the hard, black  heart of Scottish Bouldering, the mighty volcanic plug of Dumbarton Rock. There was much speculation amongst the locals about what projects were going to get sent; Mugsy, Pongo, Gorilla were all muted in hushed tones. Simply contemplating such ascents was unimaginable falling as they do in the V4-V6  range, top end grades at the playground of Scotland's finest. 

After the usual warm up of 10 laps of Friars Mantle (Classic V0), Team Woodwell made swift work of both Home Rule (V3) and Mestizio (V3). Things were looking good, feeling at home at such an imposing classic venue. Form is an elusive master, at times present with a hand on your shoulder, others negligently absent. Almost as fast as these test-pieces were crushed, disaster struck. 

Mugsy, at "only" V5/6, wouldn't budge. Young Gaskins threw himself at it but to no avail. Local sender Peter "10 V5s" Phillips looked strong on the opening moves, the only man to move statically to the sloper. However, with a spliff in his mouth and a can of red bull in his hand, Rosco held the swing and came really close. Although gutted it was time to move on to another national classic. 

Toto (Font 6b) went first go today. I used some better beta on the top of this probelm and cruised it for the watching masses. I was psyched! everyone had a go at the sit-start, Rosco making it look like a path and duly completing Totality (Font 7b+). A friction free masterclass if ever there was one. Again, Peter "3 V5s" Phillips looked really strong and it was sensed that this problem would fall soon. 

Next up on the menu was Pongo. It spanked us!

We moved on to Gorilla. It spanked us!

We went to the pub. It spanked us!

160 miles for a split tip and three V3s. Not bad but as we all knew, there are no giveaways at Dumbarton.

The Great Grade Debate

Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose but at the end of the day a climber knows in his heart what his achievements really mean. Bouldering is an elusive game at the best of times and the generally poor application of the V and Font grading systems (both developed in specific places with those only places in mind) serves only to make ranking your achivements more difficult. 

Back at the beginning of March I reported that I'd climbed a wall problem which I had been trying for over three years. There is no decent bouldering guide for the area but the route guide gives it E2 6a. I was super psyched to climb this problem and gave it V4. I assumed that I wasn't likely to be capable of climbing more than V4 so it fitted. 

However, the new Guide to Pebble Mountaineering in Northumberland came out this week and I had a flick though it. To my surprise the problem, which is called Dog Eat Dog, gets Font 7a. I was pretty psyched to read that but I knew in my heart that I can't call myself a 7a climber - it just doesn't feel right. Didn't prevent me from noising Pete up about it! Dangerous Dave Kerr says he thinks its a classic at V5 , a bit more reasonable. 

I rely heavily on grades to monitor progress and keep moving forward. I have so much admiration for those who go out and write guidebooks, the John Watsons and Greg Chapmans of this world but the grades they put in their books could be out by two grades in either direction. The only reliable source is the incredible yorkshiregrit.com, a grade geeks wet dream. Groups of real climbers with experience of the rock type voting for grades (probably best to knock out the two extreme votes before averaging) online - magic. Anything else is purely speculation. 

When I do climb a 'proper 7a' I'll be really pleased but I will have to know it in my heart. Saying that I'd climbed 7a because I climbed Dog Eat Dog would be as bad as claiming a problem with a foot dab or a power spot - I would feel like a fraud. 

With all this in mind, I think that I can claim (as Peter would describe it) a "Sully 6c".  I have now climbed 4 6cs (Dog Eat Dog, Wide Eyed, Scoop Arete and The Snatch). Some would call these soft touches and they would probably be right but I think the are amongst the hardest things I've climbed. So I'm taking them and I dont feel like I'm cheating myself!!

CANOE believe it?

The amazing start to the Scottish summer continued this weekend and saw Team Bumble on Boats take on Loch Sunnart near Ardnamurchan. It was perhaps the perfect highland day; 25km of sunny paddling with views of seals, porpoise, golden eagle and pine marten. All topped off with a BBQ and a fire on the beach. The cottage was amazing again, thats my fourth time there and never has it disappointed. I'm struggling a bit at the moment for climbing psyche. the hour drive home from work is sapping my motivation. Think I may need to touch the grit again soon. I have also spotted a new venue which contains a decent boulder field and Rob Roy's Putting Stone an 8m giant. Think I will take a brush and a mat and take the walk after work soon.

Peter's tantrum - Text to Follow

Chuffing in Slice Land

The long planned weekend away to Skye with the respective other halves was finally upon us. We'd been obsessively checking the weather forecast all week hoping it would be viable. Plan B was a trip to Langdale, fun but hardly the main event. I needn't have worried though, the forecast was perfect. A long tractor ride in the dark led us to the Glen Brittle campsite, amazingly positioned by the sea under the Black Cullin. A quick tussle with the tents and the midges and we were asleep. 

Woke up to the harsh sight of a thousand midges in the tent outer. Jeeka and I finally manned up and jumped out of the tent. Not a breath of wind in the air. The sky was overcast and the sun wasn't penetrating. Ideal midge conditions and so it proved. Swarms of the fuckers. I'll freely admit to being a total pussy when it comes to midges. They make me want to cry. Worse, they make me hate Scotland. The four of us dived into the car and ate breakfast there - treacle tart! Hardly the full luxury cooked breakie I had planned on. Other campers were milling around outside abiding the midges in one of three ways; head nets, smoking or resolute determination. I refuse to believe that Stoicism forms any part of it. Nobody stands there and says "ce la vie". People stand there and  say "bite me you fuckers, you're not going to ruin my holiday"! I find that cowering suits me just fine. 

We set off up the hill towards Sron Na Ciche, probably the best section of rock on the Central Cullin. Jeeka set a good pace and we were at the foot of the scree in short time. The path steepens here and it was a harsh slog to the foot of Little Gully (Diff). There were already a few chuffing teams out on some of the other routes; shouts of "climb when ready" whetted our appetite for the bumbling to follow. We geared up at the foot of the route and it became quickly apparent that I, as usual, was living up to Andy's nickname for me at uni - The Bull. Instead of packing both of Jeeka's pink Anazazis, I packed the right one and an old pink Anazazi of my own, a right one! So Jeeks had her normal boot on her right foot and a size 10, right boot on her left foot. I told Pete about the Bull and he pissed himself. Nearly a decade since I first met Andy and it still rings true!

The first pitch went without a hitch, nice scrambly climbing with a few moves and no need for gear to get the feel for the rock. Pete announced that he was gripped on the lead but I'm pretty sure he's not that bumbly. The second was a touch harder with a short wall. Sarah and Jeeka did really well on this both flying up it without much trouble and no hint of downclimbing. Jeeka and I broke this pitch into two so that I could be in sight while she climbed the wall, then Jeeka led the next 15-20m with no gear to Pete and Sarah's position. As she approached, Sarah jumped up and screamed for her to stop. Pete was shitting on the belay ledge. There was a strong smell of schizle when I finally arrived at the top. I was pretty psyched for Peter's effort. It's not often one gets the opportunity to deface such a fine crag. We quickly climbed past and onto the Terrace. 

Next, was what for me, the main event, Arrow Route (VDiff). Its a 50m slab of perfect dimpled gabbro. A chuffers delight. Unfortunately, we had hit a queue so we had lunch and just couldn't wait any longer. It was cold out of the sun and the two in front were having a bit of a nightmare. Pete decided to climb an adjacent route, not in the guide but a strong line that someone else had just ran up. He took his time and said he was pretty gripped. Slab climbing isn't really his forte. The slab really is 50m and Peter ran out of rope so Sarah had to start to climb the slab. Pretty top draw belaying that. the bumblies were still on Arrow Route so Jeeka and I followed Peter. A cracking route. Probably a touch stiff for VDiff, we were sure it would be harder in the lakes. Jeeks flew up it and properly enjoyed it. The two picture below on the show the slab quite well. 

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Jeeka and I went on to climb Wallworks Route (VDiff). This contained the hardest climbing of the day with much steeper and awkward climbing than before. Although initiall psyched, Jeeka got quite anxious at the second belay. We broke the next pitch into two so that I was always close and could guide her up the route. It wasn't really necessary. I had to downclimb the crux and use a cheeky sidepull. As I was describing this to Jeeks she manned up through the overlap without it. Outclimbed by my slice! All that was left after these 4 pitches was a scramble to the ridge and a chuff up the mountain. The descent was hard going but we found Peter and Sarah waiting for us halfway down. time for tea and wine on the beach. A great end to a great day.