Tuesday, 15 July 2008

Loch Katrine Boulders


Went to the Loch Katrine Boulders after work today. It was windy out so I thought it would be worth risking the midges. I have had my eye on Fight Club 6c+ and hoped it might let me in. The bracken was really high and I warmed up on the usual. Climbed the classic beta intensive Mind Trick 6a first go today which was a new experience. Topping out on that problem was wonderful today. The bracken closes in on you and when you pop up and stand on the boulder, the hills and the loch come into view. Not a soul to be seen. Scottish bouldering at its finest. I moved on the next boulder and set up under HB 6b+ (photo). I'd never done this problem. Pete and I spent time on it years ago (we couldn't climb Mind Trick either) but had no joy. It starts crouched from a letter box and moves leftwards up the s-shaped arete on slopey lay-aways and pinches. I sussed some good dark arts beta and sent it in six goes. I moved on to the main event, fight club. Although I could pull on and take the first hold, I couldn't get my heel into the starting hold. I gave it a bit of skin but it was not going to let me in today! At this point the rain came so I ran under the cover of trees and tried Water Colour Challenge 6a+. I worked out a nice sequence on crimps but a hold snapped halfway up and I quickly lost my psyche for it. On the same boulder is Art School 6b. This is blunt arete, climbed on slopers with a committing move to the final hold. It took a couple of goes to work out the right sequence but when I did I made it through the crux and only slipped off the last hold because it has got mossy and wet. The boulder is obviously neglected and needs a brush on a stick to sort it out. I decided to have a quality rest before trying again. The rain stopped and the wind with it. Before I knew it my legs and arms were covered in midges. I packed and ran. No problem is worth that, especially not a mossy one. All in all a good evening, climbing a long time project and at least touching Fight Club. 

8 comments:

andy said...

Looks nice. Shame about the snapped hold. Getting 6B's quickly now sully good skills. I'm off to do battle with projects tonight armed with some new 5.10's. No excuses for me!

Anonymous said...

Hw did you get on? Anything new? What you up to on Sunday?

Sully

andy said...

pulled a bloody tendon attached to my ring finger. Still hurts today. Might try to solo all the routes at hutton roof on sunday to help aid recovery? or do some easy problems somewhere what you up to?

Anonymous said...

HArsh... Don't know what I'm doing. I might have to man up and do DIY but I have half a mind to get the train to Lancaster and join you out somewhere. Was thinking I might like to have a go at For My Next Trick at Thorn.

andy said...

fair enough give us a bell. I'm busy saturday but could possibly do something on sunday.

Anonymous said...

Hi,

Going to have to be a good boy this weekend. Might make it up to the Whangie to try Lego Polisman - 6c but thats about it.

See you later big yin.

Anonymous said...

Hey big man. Didn't get out at all this weekend. Gutted. I'm going to start arranging time off for sept/october for a week in font. Let me know if you are keen. It may just be me by myself in which case, I should start looking for cheap flights now.

Anonymous said...

ANNOT IS AMAZING!!!! Cancel font and get to Annot. Beautiful, beautiful sandstone boulders in an amazing forest on the side of an alp and only about ten people climbing at a time!!
Pete's tick list from the trip:
3 Fb 7a
2 FB 6c+
2 Fb 6c
Countless others above the reporting threshold..
See you in the week..