Caley

The main event was a trip to Caley. I had a score to settle after my last visit a month ago. There is a really cool arete which I felt was possible but I failed on (and in front of a pseudo-goth hottie and everything). It goes at Ft6c and I was keen try again. 

There was still snow on the ground but all of the boulders were climbable. We started over at the crag end on the circuit of boulders in the trees. Warming up on Creme Egg boulders we quickly knocked off two contrasting aretes, one technical (V3/6a+) and one burly (V2/6a). Moving round we came to a slab which had been wet on my previous visit. Peter didn't fancy it but Andy and I flashed it at V2/5+. We found Peter sat under an amazing flying arete. I thought it looked to hard for me so I saved my skin. Hebson got it and Pete came close and should really have got it. The hardest send of the day V5/6c. 

Continuing this amazing circuit, we arrived at the wave like prow. There are a number of variations but the 'use everything' tactic goes at V4/6b(+). We all got this after a working it for half an hour or something. I was super psyched to get this problem as I thought it too much for me. Pete, inspired by my send, got his shoes back on and quickly dispatched it. What was all the fuss about! Andy and I then quickly repeated Mr Smooth (V3/6a), a problem I couldn't do two years ago but flashed last month. Must be a good sign!

We Moved over to the roadside boulders and New Jerusalem in particular. Andy worked this till it pissed him off (a lot) and till we could encourage him to come and try (what was for me) the main event - the 6c arete. The three of us worked out a nice sequence and the boys sent it fairly quickly. I, on the other hand, was losing skin and was starting to bleed through my finger tips. I was spreading my AIDS all over Andy's mat, Pete's Chalk Bucket and my own Down Jacket, not to mention he problem itself. At one point I came off while crimping the right hand crimp with all my strength. That was pure agony and but I eventually manned up and latched the top hold. My first outdoor V5 was in the back - shame its a V4! 

That was the end of my day and I was relieved to get out f my boots and just spot the other guys. Andy made a Beta Flash of Forked Lightning Crack V4/6b and Pete followed after a few attempts. The guns were finally worn out on a harsh rock over problem which nobody could do. Rocky "is your name really rocky?" Robinson turned up looking cold and thirsty. Time for dinner and well deserved pints!

Wimberry

Day one of Grit Fest 08 started with worry and doubt. Large quantities of snow had been forecast and were indeed deposited over the yorkshire dales. With not a little trepidation I picked a surprisingly fresh and psyched Peter Phillips up from the the home of the 'Glengarry Measure'. We passed the lowland chuffing paradise of Mount Loudoun and made our way south, taking in as many eye witness weather reports as possible. It sounded like the west would be best so we headed to Wimberry rocks, a quality circuit based on proper boulders. Unfortunately, it had been snowing here too and it faces north. The circuit was off but we did find some nice problems that were unaffected to pass the afternoon with. 

Warming up on the sugarloaf boulder, Andy and I sent a nice blunt arete at V3/6a+. Moving to the Sloping Top Boulder, Pete and Andy got stuck into Fat Slapper V4/6b+ but only Andy managed to sort the top out. We all got the nice V2 groove next to it and I was pleased to on-sight it. Getting excited for the main event, we went to see if Fish Arete was dry. No such luck. However, I spotted a nice looking sitter starting from a positive sidepull and moving to slopers and a top out. The boys got it fairly quickly so I thought I'd have a go. I found the second sloper really hard so I dynoed to the jug, holding the swing on my third attempt - V4/6b+

It was a shame that we couldn't get fired right in but I was glad to have some skin for the following day. That was three days on after all.  

Stronachlachar

Inspired by Hendo's photo (above) of the classic Boomer (aka The Stronachlachar Dyno) V2 - Font 5+, I made a trip to the Stronachlachar boulders to see what tickling was on offer. It was a gorgeous day, warm and sunny with snow on the peaks. Just what I needed after yesterdays trip to the industrial wasteland which is Dumbarton Rock.  

I started with the dyno and soon latched the top hold once I'd worked out where to aim. The top out was an unexpected and scary heel hook maneuver. Shat myself a bit to be fair!

Spying the 'long boulder' up the hill, I packed up and moved up to try Toy Soldiers (V3/6a+), a crimpy wall problem. I had expected that this would take a while like mestizo did last weekend but I found some good technique and climbed it in 3 gos. Feeling pleased I had a go at the sit start. This took much longer but after some proper rest and a banana, I stuck the dynamic move up and left to the crimp and topped out. There are some conflicting grades knocking around for this problem; Dave Redpath gives it Font 6c on the Scottish Climbs database, V4 on UKClimbing.com and its Font 6b in the Lowland Outcrops guide. I think it is somewhere in the middle, more 6b than 6c so I'm going to give myself a V4 for it - Toy Soldiers sit start (V4)

Not Psyched for Dumby

Shit session at a windy Dumbarton today. It started going wrong when the mat nearly blew into the Clyde! After a warm up, we went to the home rule boulder where I made a repeat of the technical Home Rule (V3). Pete denounced it as "a shit problem" after half a dozen attempts and moved on to the Mestizo Sit Start (Font 7a+). After flashing the opening moves he realised the crux heel hook move would take some work. Tried toto, the railing and slap happy but were having a fairly disastrous time. When 'team super psyched' rocked up it was time for us to leave. Went to the centre to try a few problems and do a bit of campusing. Not the great day out I'd hoped for. 

Psyched for Dumby?

Two decent wall sessions and one in the training cupboard made for a fairly good week leading up to today and Grit Fest 08. Today I went to Dumbarton Rock to try a problem which I have never been able to do. Mestizo (hardest 6a+/V3 in the world) is a cool overhanging arete, climbed using opposing holds and a poor undercut. It took a fair number of attempts (including hitting the finishing hold six times) which was gutting but I got there in the end just as Jim and his crew turned up. I've not tried this problem for probably two years and immediately felt the difference in my strength when I pulled on. There are a few problems I would like to try there now I'm starting to improve again. Maybe Dumby isn't as bad as all that really.... 

Buzzin' Day at Bowden

Peter and I travelled to Bowden Doors in Northumberland today for sunshine and sandstone - and were not disappointed! A handful of new problems for both of us ensured that we went home pretty chuffed about our training efforts over the last few weeks. It was a strange day where Pete sent the problem I wanted (Cave LH) and I sent the problem Pete wanted (crimpy wall problem) - a rare event!

We warmed up at the sheep pen area, cleaned up the seven problem easy circuit before getting stuck into the two scoop problems. Neither of us had climbed the "main scoop" (V3) before - Pete sent it second go, me third. Good start! Pete then took half a dozen attempts to get the illuminating "lightbulb" (V3/4). I have climbed the problem in the past and found that the erosion was too much for me to warrant going for the repeat. We then moved on to the cave area where Pete sent "Cave LH" (V3/4) second go. I failed miserably to do much with the undercutty sidepull. One for next time. Pete tried halfheartedly to work Cave RH but didn't give it much skin. 

Packing up again and walking southwards along the crag we heard voices - "climb when ready" - "climbing". The place was hoaching with chuffers! Top Draw! Loads of folk having a bumble. We found the wall problem round the corner from Canada Crack (a buzzing HVS). This problem has repelled me for three years. It gets British 6a in the guidebook but it feels like a good V4. We each had about a dozen goes but although Pete had got to the dishes once, we were making a pretty poor show. Inspired by all the chuffing going on around me I scoffed my lunch in a oner and settled down to some solid digestion. The lads on Canada Crack were back down and were showing interest in our sends so we urged them to get involved. The main chuffer took of his harsh boots and socks and replaced them with 5.10 slip ons - "I think we are going to be spanked". Thankfully he was shit at it as well and I decided to give it another go. With my power lunch working I finally managed to get my left foot up to the high foothold and man up to the dishes. A cool head is all that is needed from here to finish. "Wall Problem" V4. I was stoked - Peter was riled!

Peter rapidly lost the pyshce and was further pissed off when I climbed what I thought was "His Eminence" but wasn't. It was a nice V2 all the same, second go with a quality reverse two finger undercut. 

Next was raven crag and we quickly got into an excellent V4/5ish eliminate which we failed to do. Again, one for next time. Moving along we found the cool sloper problem that Dumby Si did last time. Took a few goes but we both made it (Pete crimping and me mantling) - "Sloper Problem" V3/4. We also climbed the nice seam to the left at Brit 5b. 

Feeling pretty broken we finished the day at Back   Bowden with a half dozen V1s and V2s. A cracking day   out. Back to the training cupboard for more of the same!    

News Flash

News has reached the Training Lounge that whilst on a recent trip to the Bouldering Chateaux, Peter Phillips of Team "psyched for grit" has flashed The Pommel (V4) at Brimham Rocks. 

Preparations are now underway for Grit Fest 2008 and seen alongside the Font trip in May and the imminent release of The Turd Polishers Guide to Bouldering in Scotland, bouldering seems to be top of the agenda for the coming spring season. 

Was listening to The Clash on my way home and Joe Strummer sang a line which made me think of the eternal balance between climbing and quality time. Its harsh but it goes like this-

Every cheap hood strikes a

Bargain with the world

And ends up making payments on a 

Sofa or a girl