Saturday, 22 March 2008

Stronachlachar


Inspired by Hendo's photo (above) of the classic Boomer (aka The Stronachlachar Dyno) V2 - Font 5+, I made a trip to the Stronachlachar boulders to see what tickling was on offer. It was a gorgeous day, warm and sunny with snow on the peaks. Just what I needed after yesterdays trip to the industrial wasteland which is Dumbarton Rock.  

I started with the dyno and soon latched the top hold once I'd worked out where to aim. The top out was an unexpected and scary heel hook maneuver. Shat myself a bit to be fair!

Spying the 'long boulder' up the hill, I packed up and moved up to try Toy Soldiers (V3/6a+), a crimpy wall problem. I had expected that this would take a while like mestizo did last weekend but I found some good technique and climbed it in 3 gos. Feeling pleased I had a go at the sit start. This took much longer but after some proper rest and a banana, I stuck the dynamic move up and left to the crimp and topped out. There are some conflicting grades knocking around for this problem; Dave Redpath gives it Font 6c on the Scottish Climbs database, V4 on UKClimbing.com and its Font 6b in the Lowland Outcrops guide. I think it is somewhere in the middle, more 6b than 6c so I'm going to give myself a V4 for it - Toy Soldiers sit start (V4)

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