Monday, 28 April 2008

Quick Session at the Wolfcrag


An after work tickle at the rain immune Wolfcrag turned out to be quite profitable with some good repeats and three new problems. After racing through the thunder storm, I unpacked and sat under the overhang to wait for the rain to subside. Warmed up on the usual and taped up. I took John Watson's guide to see what problems he has found amongst the features and chips. To be honest, I was a little disappointed. I think he missed some of the best problems, even if they are eliminate. The grades are slightly different (both ways) to the online guide so I will try to give what I think t be a fair grade for them. Starting with a problem Pete and I repeated fell off a couple of summers back I found Peg Crack (V3/6a+) pretty easy. I also climbed left wall (V3/6a+), Experiments in Incest (V3/6b) and the Pod Dyno (V4/6b). The Pod Dyno has been a it of a frustrating problem for me in recent visits but today I didn't find it too bad. I finished by inventing a new problem of my own which probably goes at V4ish. By this time though, the rain started again so I gave it up. Feeling strongish but not near what I had hoped for Font!


Wednesday, 16 April 2008

Dumby

Evening at Dumby with the boys tonight. It was really busy - team super psyched on the sports routes, team chuffer on the sea boulder, team GUMC abandoning their sending honeys. Did the usual warm up and we to try a new problem Pete had done a couple of days ago. He thought with the Beta I could probably flash it - which I duly did - Bampot Arete V4/6b+. Not entirely convinced about the grade but I'll take it. Thanks to Pete for being generous with his Beta! 

Pete and I took the abandoned sending honey Cat under our wing and psyched her up Friars Mantle and Zig Zag. She seemed pretty pleased about it.

Also tried Bust My Chops and Pongo. Both problems are desperate but good as potential projects. Paul seems to have lost no strength during his month off. Gutted!

Tuesday, 15 April 2008

St Brides Wall - Trossachs

Quick tickle after work at a new venue.. Bit of a shit crag to be honest with only a few problems. Moreover, the rock is a harsh type of mica schizle; quartzy, stratified, sharp and even a bit snappy. I climbed two problems Grey Matter (ft 6a) and Haemorrhage (ft 6b). It was nice in the sun but all in all, I don't think I'll be back for the other test pieces. Big up to the mighty Hebson or getting his first Font 7b. Puts my lowly efforts to shame! Still, at least I can get a pass for Font!

Monday, 7 April 2008

Buzzin' Picture of Top Draw Chuffing


Some guy wandering along the Cairngorm Plateau took this picture of Pete leading the final pitch of 'The Message' IV,6 on the Mess of Pottage, Northern Cairngorms. We manned up this on a perfect 30th of December.  

Thursday, 3 April 2008

Glen Lednock

Made a visit to the mica schizle paradise of Upper Glen Lednock after work to sample its delights. There are a good number of decent sized boulders to play on here. It is no Caley but not bad from work and with a quality chippy in Comrie, its a good choice. 

I mainly scoped the place out, climbing the burly Red 22 V3/6a+, and Feathering the Penthouse V3/6a+ but split a tip on Best in Toon V4 and called it a day. I will definitely be back and wil take photos to entice Peter next time!