Monday, 24 March 2008

Caley

The main event was a trip to Caley. I had a score to settle after my last visit a month ago. There is a really cool arete which I felt was possible but I failed on (and in front of a pseudo-goth hottie and everything). It goes at Ft6c and I was keen try again. 

There was still snow on the ground but all of the boulders were climbable. We started over at the crag end on the circuit of boulders in the trees. Warming up on Creme Egg boulders we quickly knocked off two contrasting aretes, one technical (V3/6a+) and one burly (V2/6a). Moving round we came to a slab which had been wet on my previous visit. Peter didn't fancy it but Andy and I flashed it at V2/5+. We found Peter sat under an amazing flying arete. I thought it looked to hard for me so I saved my skin. Hebson got it and Pete came close and should really have got it. The hardest send of the day V5/6c

Continuing this amazing circuit, we arrived at the wave like prow. There are a number of variations but the 'use everything' tactic goes at V4/6b(+). We all got this after a working it for half an hour or something. I was super psyched to get this problem as I thought it too much for me. Pete, inspired by my send, got his shoes back on and quickly dispatched it. What was all the fuss about! Andy and I then quickly repeated Mr Smooth (V3/6a), a problem I couldn't do two years ago but flashed last month. Must be a good sign!


We Moved over to the roadside boulders and New Jerusalem in particular. Andy worked this till it pissed him off (a lot) and till we could encourage him to come and try (what was for me) the main event - the 6c arete. The three of us worked out a nice sequence and the boys sent it fairly quickly. I, on the other hand, was losing skin and was starting to bleed through my finger tips. I was spreading my AIDS all over Andy's mat, Pete's Chalk Bucket and my own Down Jacket, not to mention he problem itself. At one point I came off while crimping the right hand crimp with all my strength. That was pure agony and but I eventually manned up and latched the top hold. My first outdoor V5 was in the back - shame its a V4

That was the end of my day and I was relieved to get out f my boots and just spot the other guys. Andy made a Beta Flash of Forked Lightning Crack V4/6b and Pete followed after a few attempts. The guns were finally worn out on a harsh rock over problem which nobody could do. Rocky "is your name really rocky?" Robinson turned up looking cold and thirsty. Time for dinner and well deserved pints!




1 comment:

andy said...

A nice clear and accurate report from the scribe at scottishsends!