The Great Grade Debate

Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose but at the end of the day a climber knows in his heart what his achievements really mean. Bouldering is an elusive game at the best of times and the generally poor application of the V and Font grading systems (both developed in specific places with those only places in mind) serves only to make ranking your achivements more difficult. 

Back at the beginning of March I reported that I'd climbed a wall problem which I had been trying for over three years. There is no decent bouldering guide for the area but the route guide gives it E2 6a. I was super psyched to climb this problem and gave it V4. I assumed that I wasn't likely to be capable of climbing more than V4 so it fitted. 

However, the new Guide to Pebble Mountaineering in Northumberland came out this week and I had a flick though it. To my surprise the problem, which is called Dog Eat Dog, gets Font 7a. I was pretty psyched to read that but I knew in my heart that I can't call myself a 7a climber - it just doesn't feel right. Didn't prevent me from noising Pete up about it! Dangerous Dave Kerr says he thinks its a classic at V5 , a bit more reasonable. 

I rely heavily on grades to monitor progress and keep moving forward. I have so much admiration for those who go out and write guidebooks, the John Watsons and Greg Chapmans of this world but the grades they put in their books could be out by two grades in either direction. The only reliable source is the incredible yorkshiregrit.com, a grade geeks wet dream. Groups of real climbers with experience of the rock type voting for grades (probably best to knock out the two extreme votes before averaging) online - magic. Anything else is purely speculation. 

When I do climb a 'proper 7a' I'll be really pleased but I will have to know it in my heart. Saying that I'd climbed 7a because I climbed Dog Eat Dog would be as bad as claiming a problem with a foot dab or a power spot - I would feel like a fraud. 

With all this in mind, I think that I can claim (as Peter would describe it) a "Sully 6c".  I have now climbed 4 6cs (Dog Eat Dog, Wide Eyed, Scoop Arete and The Snatch). Some would call these soft touches and they would probably be right but I think the are amongst the hardest things I've climbed. So I'm taking them and I dont feel like I'm cheating myself!!