Sustenpass

On the way back from Italy we stopped at the Sustenpass for a few hours to break the journey and check out the bouldering. I had hoped to get here for evening sessions from Interlaken but the drive was not the 40 minutes promised on UKClimbing but about 90 minutes over a harsh alpine pass. Coupled with the 4pm thunderstorm, no evening sends would be possible and this would be my only chance to get stuck in. I thought it would be a quiet venue but there were another five teams out. I later found out that Dave Graham has an 8b here so I suppose it must be popular. It was a hot sunny day but the boulders are at 2000m so the air is nicely cool. The rock is a granitic gneiss and is very rough. Crimps, edges and slopers. I climbed for over 3 hours but only climbed 4 'proper' problems. I warmed up on a few slabs and traverses and started on a 6a sitter. I expected to flash it but was spat off harshly. Took a few goes before I sorted the sneaky beta for the send. Next up was a cool 6b+ sit start (pictured). It is in the guide as a "6" whatever that means. I assume it is a misprint and so I gave it what I feel it is. It took some doing, maybe 15 goes. I was getting pretty pissed off with it Next up was a 6b. the first two moves of this were the crux but it went in 5 goes. The following youtube link shows the two problems. Its the last two problems - the ones the guys struggle on! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHHy6GONQq4&feature=related) Lastly we moved boulder and I climbed a nice 6a+ arete and tried a 6c before packing up for a coke and a smile. An amazing venue which I hope the photos give testament to.