Sunday, 9 March 2008

Buzzin' Day at Bowden


Peter and I travelled to Bowden Doors in Northumberland today for sunshine and sandstone - and were not disappointed! A handful of new problems for both of us ensured that we went home pretty chuffed about our training efforts over the last few weeks. It was a strange day where Pete sent the problem I wanted (Cave LH) and I sent the problem Pete wanted (crimpy wall problem) - a rare event!

We warmed up at the sheep pen area, cleaned up the seven problem easy circuit before getting stuck into the two scoop problems. Neither of us had climbed the "main scoop" (V3) before - Pete sent it second go, me third. Good start! Pete then took half a dozen attempts to get the illuminating "lightbulb" (V3/4). I have climbed the problem in the past and found that the erosion was too much for me to warrant going for the repeat. We then moved on to the cave area where Pete sent "Cave LH" (V3/4) second go. I failed miserably to do much with the undercutty sidepull. One for next time. Pete tried halfheartedly to work Cave RH but didn't give it much skin. 



Packing up again and walking southwards along the crag we heard voices - "climb when ready" - "climbing". The place was hoaching with chuffers! Top Draw! Loads of folk having a bumble. We found the wall problem round the corner from Canada Crack (a buzzing HVS). This problem has repelled me for three years. It gets British 6a in the guidebook but it feels like a good V4. We each had about a dozen goes but although Pete had got to the dishes once, we were making a pretty poor show. Inspired by all the chuffing going on around me I scoffed my lunch in a oner and settled down to some solid digestion. The lads on Canada Crack were back down and were showing interest in our sends so we urged them to get involved. The main chuffer took of his harsh boots and socks and replaced them with 5.10 slip ons - "I think we are going to be spanked". Thankfully he was shit at it as well and I decided to give it another go. With my power lunch working I finally managed to get my left foot up to the high foothold and man up to the dishes. A cool head is all that is needed from here to finish. "Wall Problem" V4. I was stoked - Peter was riled!

Peter rapidly lost the pyshce and was further pissed off when I climbed what I thought was "His Eminence" but wasn't. It was a nice V2 all the same, second go with a quality reverse two finger undercut. 

Next was raven crag and we quickly got into an excellent V4/5ish eliminate which we failed to do. Again, one for next time. Moving along we found the cool sloper problem that Dumby Si did last time. Took a few goes but we both made it (Pete crimping and me mantling) - "Sloper Problem" V3/4. We also climbed the nice seam to the left at Brit 5b. 


Feeling pretty broken we finished the day at Back   Bowden with a half dozen V1s and V2s. A cracking day   out. Back to the training cupboard for more of the same!    

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

What's happened with the rest of the pics big man..?! Pete

Anonymous said...

Top draw pics sully, one suggestion; caption the pictures so that punters will know what the problem is. Top draw, see you later on in the training lounge. Pete

andy said...

this place looks ace sully! what's petes face all about. not enough gurning for me!