Sully's Big Room

Headed north east today to avoid the Environment Agency's flood warnings. It seems we never know where we are going until Friday night. There are four directions and wherever the sun shines we go.  The only problem I suppose is that the venues in each of those directions are roughly 2 hours drive away. I have a new sending wagon on the horizon so I hope these drives are better in the future. Today we went to check out Glen Clova, near Forfar. The rock is ryolyte but there seems to be only a few large boulders. We started on the John Peel boulder with Peel Sessions, a classic V4 6b (centre picture). Pete and Jonny flashed it and I got it second go. Next up was the sit down start, V5 on the internet guide and 6c+ in the new guidebook. Pete climbed it first go, Jonny second or third. I was there as the captain of team weak and kept falling off. The boys indulged me and let me keep trying and after getting over a harsh flash pump in my left arm, I sent it after dozen or so attempts. there was lots of chat about the grade and although I agree it is overgraded, I think Pete and Jonny, who have both smashed through their plateaus recently, just don't know their own strength. I think V4/6b+ would probably be fair. I don't really know why I made such hard work of it. 

Next up was Rudolf 6c. Pete and Jonny both flashed this one. It again took me at least a dozen goes. I think (for me) it was harder than Peel Sessions, involving as it does, more open reach than I can generally muster. 

Moving on again, we went to check out the Hole of Weems 7a. I decided to give it a rest after having to work so hard for the other two problems. The other boys struggled for over half an hour but on their "last attempts" both miraculously held on through shit slopers to send it in consecutive goes. Team psyche. That seemed to be the best of the circuit in the new guidebook. We didn't have the online guide with us so we packed and drove further north to Portethen. It was my suggestion, made becuase I really wanted to get back on the two problems I tried there last week, The Pit and The Prow. 

The wind was up and the North-East coast of Scotland which I call home gave a good show if its harsh beauty. The waves were crashing and its looked like we didn't have long before the tide swallowed the clean rock of the Sea Pig Boulder. We started on The Prow V5/6c, Pete giving confident flash banter. He got sorted, pulled on an missed the pinch.. Harsh! The pinch is the best thing about the problem. The other week when I was there, I was disheartened when I first touched it. But once you are underneath it becomes amazing, perfectly hand sized. Its a short problem and once you have latched the pinch, you don't let go until you are topping out (see left photo). I spent about an hour and half on it last time, never managing to quite latch the right side pull from the heel hook. Pete missed the pinch again. I got on and, like last week, missed the sidepull. Pete again, latching the pinch but now struggling with the heel hook. My turn, I entered the Big Room and cruised it. It felt easy! I was psyched. I felt my ebbing climbing mojo resurge like the North Sea tide around my feet. Pete got it a few goes later and Jonny too, high fives all round. 

The Pit V6/7a (right hand photo) is another Porty classic. I had sussed the beta a few weeks ago but couldn't do the final move. I showed the boys ow to do it and moved through the lower moves easily every time. Pete was sugar spazzing by now and struggling with the powerful undercuts. Jonny was having a harsh time, losing skin but after half a dozen top efforts, he latched the top and dispatched the problem. We gave some skin to The Pain and The Pendulum but called it a day for Fish and Chips. 

It was a profitable day out for all, three problems at 6c for me and Pete, four for Jonny, one 7a for Pete and two for Jonny. Not bad really. It was frustrating to watch these guys piss up problems I found hard but it meant I was forced to dig deep and man up. Its sometimes more satisfying that way. Oh yeah, and Pete got the send of the day, an onsight ascent of The Peadie Prow 5b, possible my facvourite 5b problem in Scotland - even better than Friars Mantle!