Summer at St Bees

Matt was the consoler of the lonely today, accompanying me to St Bees Head in Cumbria. I got him psyched by the fact that the RSPB own the cliffs. The forecast was positive and so it proved. By the time we had arrived at the lighthouse, the sun was beating down. I got warmed up on some nice V1s and a V2 6a, then moved round for an on-sight attempt of the classic Apairy Arete V1 5c. I started with my hands round the wrong way and blew it. I sent it next go. I then moved round to try a V4 I saw on the UKClimbing photo page. I must admit that I failed pretty miserably on this. It took a while to work out the beta to the second hold but then couldn't power to the top. Powering from right arm crimps and heal hooks is not my strong point. I moved round and climbed another couple of V2s (flashed) before settling on a another problem I saw on the web. Its the short arete in the background of the photo. It goes at V5 from sitting. I nearly flashed it and I think I only fell off out of shock! After that I struggled with the first move but it went in the end.

We picked up our stuff and moved south the Fishermans Steps area. I climbed the classic Fisherman's Dyno V2 6a. An amazing problem and nearly the problem of the day. I tried the V6 arete and was baffled by the baffling start. This area is not as good as the Apairy Wall area so we moved back again. The locals showed me Headbanger. It is a problem Pete and I checked out on that rainy day years ago. It is V8 from sitting, V3 from standing but the locals say it is V5 from crouched. I found it pretty desperate. The burlesque slap with the right hand wasn't sticking. I was psyched though. This was my sharma moment. I gave a power scream and caught the slap, adjusted, made the next two slaps and promptly fell off the rock over top out. I gave it some quality rest manned it up in front of Matt and Team Local (who were also psyched after climbing screaming yellow desert at V8+) . Two V5 ticks. I was pretty sunburnt by now but was psyched for one last problem. got involved with Team Local to try a classic called Undercooke V5/6. What an amazing problem. I slipped off the crux pinch twice but I am so psyched to go back soon to work it fresh.

An amazing day! It takes only minutes longer than a trip to the county and the problems, although fewer, are much better. I can't wait to get back!!

On a separate note, Pete climbed Gorilla V5/6c today. I think I might try and give a bash this week.